PORTLAND, Maine — In a locavore, vegan-friendly, food-conscious city, what’s a high-end steakhouse like Timber doing selling fat-marbled steaks aged hundreds of miles away in New York City?
Tip-top business less than a week in.
Noah and Dan Talmatch of The Northpoint opened their second restaurant last week called Timber Steakhouse and Rotisserie on Exchange Street. Offering certified Angus beef in diverse cuts served with sides of batter-fried smoked bacon and a bourbon, whisky, rye and scotch bible to consider, the bold brethren once again have hit upon a winning concept.
“We are the cake in the fridge at midnight,” said Noah, who offers decadence with a capital D in his carnivore-friendly tavern.
“Let’s be honest, this is a steakhouse, nothing in here is good for you,” said Talmatch, a New York City native with a knack for decor and cuisine. “I always say nobody dies healthy.”
To wit, he serves a juicy, flavorful steak that “cooks beautifully and is soft, not dry.”
Diners will pay dearly for the pleasure. If $78 for a 2-pound porterhouse seems over the top, Talmatch says a section of the dining public is ready to splash out.
“When someone wakes up in the morning and says ‘I’m going to a steakhouse.’ It’s the highlight of your week. It’s a very exciting event,” he says.
But often such grand expectations are dashed in an overcooked, hockey puck-like kitchen disaster. Timber, billing itself as Portland’s only steakhouse, aims to elevate that experience.
“When people try our steak, it’s the difference between a Ferrari and a Volkswagen,” said Talmatch. “If you want to drive a Ferrari you have to pay for a Ferrari.”
By aging steaks from 30 to 45 days to coax flavor and choosing the highest of the high cuts — ribeye, filet mignon, porterhouse, prime New York steak — Timber aims for speed.
The ambiance is uptown and adult.
Wooden log cuts delineate the walls, lighting is soft. Chairs are fashioned out of tree stumps. The staff wear ties. It’s not for hipsters, but they are welcome. “We love all, serve all,” is the brothers’ mantra.
Like most confident products out of New York, this place and the proprietor have swagger to spare.
“Morton’s, Peter Lugers, when you think of all the great steakhouses in the world, we are of equal par or better,” he said.
But don’t take his word for it. The dining public on Monday night swooned openly.
“This is the best steak I’ve had in my life,” customer Joel Richardson told the bartender on his second visit.
The tour operator didn’t bat an eye at the $46 price tag for a 16-ounce prime New York steak with cabernet demi.
Moments later government policy consultant Christopher P. O’Neil of Portland pulled up a stool to concur.
“Every great city in America has a great steak and chop house times 100. Portland is a great city. This has been a void,” he said.
Beef is not the only meat spoken here. A rotisserie oven cranks quietly in the middle of the restaurant.
Slow roasted chicken, half ($16) or whole ($21), served with dipping sauces such as lemon garlic or chili piquante, is a tempting diversion. Grilled lobster tails (market price) and sauteed bay scallops ($21) are accompanied with fresh herbs and spices.
Everything is a la carte.
“You pick what you want and design your own meal,” said Talmatch, who offers sides such as roasted Brussel sprouts, creamed spinach and thick-cut onion rings.
The caprese salad ($12), a vine-ripened hunk of love, looked divine sailing through the room.
Speaking of room, soon Timber opens a back patio for al fresco carne cavorting and cocktailing. The 76-seat restaurant will balloon to 116 this summer.
“There is room here for quality. There are people from all walks of life that appreciate a steak dinner,” said Talmatch, who hopes Timber will grow into Portland’s top restaurant.
Timber Steakhouse and Rotisserie,106 Exchange St., Portland. (207) 805-1469. Hours are 4 p.m. to 1 a.m daily, food until midnight, and 4-11 p.m. Sunday.
