June 25, 2018
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What’s so patriotic about cookouts?

Slate | BDN
Slate | BDN
By Will Oremus, Slate

How did cookouts become a Fourth of July tradition anyway? In 2011, Will Oremus explained how backyard barbecues rose to prominence in the 20thcentury, and he traces the practice of cooking meat on an open fire back to the colonists in the 1800s. His original article is reprinted below.

We tend to hold it as a self-evident truth that the proper way to celebrate the country’s independence is with a backyard barbecue. The country’s leading barbecue trade association reports that the Fourth of July is the nation’smost popular outdoor cooking holiday, with Memorial Day a distant second. When did throwing hunks of meat onto an open fire become patriotic?

In the early 1800s. Colonists in Virginia had been getting together in the summer to smoke large animals over a pit since before the nation’s founding in a tradition they apparently imported from the West Indies. (The word “barbecue” comes from the Spanish “barbacoa,” which is believed to derive from a word used by the indigenous Taino peopleof Hispaniola to describe a wooden rack used for smoking meats.) The practice spread in the first half of the 19th century as political leaders began staging rallies to mark Independence Day (which was not yet an official holiday); to draw crowds, they held massive barbecues, often roasting whole pigs or even oxen.

In the 20th century, as the nation’s population shifted from the country to the city and then the suburbs, the Independence Day cookout morphed from a public free-for-all into a family affair. Magazine advertisements of the pre-World War II era encouraged families to stage their own “backyard barbecues” with the aid of the newly popularized charcoal grill.

Why do we celebrate America’s independence with frankfurters, wieners and hamburgers instead of with meat named after American cities? Because we’re a nation of immigrants. And besides, the modern hamburger is far enough removed from its namesake to merit its quintessentially American reputation. According to Josh Ozersky’s book The Hamburger: A History, the original “hamburg steak” served to German sailors at food stands along the New York City harbor in the early 19th century was a semi-cured slab of salted and spiced beef. Today’s version was made possible by a pair of American innovations: the meat grinder and the hamburger bun. Still, it took a while for the burger to shed its Teutonic connotations. During World War I, diners rebranded their patties as “Salisbury steak” or even “Liberty steaks” to avoid any association with the enemy. But by World War II, Americans had made the meat their own and seemed to have no qualms about the etymology of its name. As for frankfurters, which bear a closer resemblance to their German forerunners: Those with qualms can simply call them hot dogs.

Will Oremus writes for Slate.

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