There’s something wonderfully cozy, warm and inviting about the Pownal lunch spot Edna and Lucy’s, located on Route 9 just a stone’s throw from Bradbury Mountain State Park. Maybe it’s the bright red exterior and frenzy of flowers and greens planted out front by co-owners Sabrina Warner and Steph Dexter. Maybe it’s the sunny inside dining area and rustic design. Or maybe it’s just the fact that Dexter and Warner make sandwiches, soups, salads and sweets that give new meaning to the term comfort food.
Open since 2008, Edna and Lucy’s — named for the pair’s two grandmothers — has served travelers on Route 9, hikers and bikers at the mountain and devoted locals an array of homemade treats with a side of friendliness. Dexter and Warner met in Portland as they both shared a passion for gardening, and as it turned out, they both shared a passion for food, too. They wanted to do something together, and they discovered the old building in Pownal that they eventually opened as an eatery.
There are two sandwiches that really steal the spotlight: the hot roast beef and the reuben. The hot roast beef is served on dense, flavorful house-made bread with horseradish mayo, cheddar and grilled onions. It’s big, and though you’ll think you can save half for later, you’ll more than likely want to eat the whole thing in one sitting. It’s that good. The soups — from chili to wild rice and mushroom – are hearty and filling, and the salads are colorful and creative, like the goat cheese, pecan and roasted beet, a summer and fall favorite. And let’s not even get into the doughnuts, which are crisp and made traditionally. No chocolate frosted or cream-filled monstrosities here, just plain doughnuts, the way they are supposed to be — at least, in this writer’s opinion.
The food is the star of the show, of course, but the inviting atmosphere that Dexter and Warner have created is what makes Edna and Lucy’s shine. What better way to spend a Saturday afternoon in the fall than to hike Bradbury Mountain and then tuck into an amazing lunch?