REESER MANLEY

Give hardworking garden tools a good cleaning before putting them away

Posted Oct. 28, 2011, at 4:44 p.m.
When not in use, garden rakes and scuffle hoes lean against spades or digging forks. Soon they will be clean, restored, and put away for winter.
When not in use, garden rakes and scuffle hoes lean against spades or digging forks. Soon they will be clean, restored, and put away for winter.

Through the summer, my garden tools hang out in the garden, rain or shine. When not in use, garden rakes and scuffle hoes lean against spades or digging forks, each waiting its turn.

Wooden handles become rough and cracked, working ends stay caked with soil and composted manure.

At the end of the gardening year, I atone for summer sins by cleaning and restoring the tools before they are put away. Despite the summer abuse, the following approach has kept our tools in service for years.

To clean the working end of a digging fork, shovel, trowel, rake or hoe, first remove all soil and other debris with soap and water. A stiff wire brush or putty knife will help remove stubborn caked-on soil and much of the rust. Any remaining rust can be removed by rubbing with coarse steel wool. Finally, give the tool head a thorough wiping with a dry cloth.

Fill a large pot or wooden box with oil-saturated sand — use fresh engine oil. The cleaned tools are coated with oil by plunging their heads into the sand. Some gardeners store their digging tools through winter with the metal ends buried in the sand. Either way, the oil-soaked sand will last “forever” if you use it only for clean tools.

Don’t forget to recondition the handles of your tools. If a handle is loose, tighten the essential screws and bolts. More than once I have had to replace a screw or nut lost in the garden — scuffle hoes are particularly needy in this way.

If the handle is broken, replace it. Handles can be purchased at most hardware stores, but you may have to reshape the replacement handle to fit your tool’s head. This can be done with a wood rasp or sanding machine.

Clean each handle with a stiff brush, then sand away nicks and splinters with medium-grade sandpaper. Finally, slowly rub the handle with a rag soaked in boiled linseed oil. Repeat the application several times, allowing time for the oil to be absorbed into the wood between applications.

When it comes to cleaning and sharpening pruners and loppers, I defer to Marjorie’s time-tested methods — she has never had to replace a blade on her pruning tools. To keep them clean, she regularly wipes the blades with rubbing alcohol, a solvent that will dissolve pitch while removing rust.

For sharpening a bypass pruner, the type that cuts like a pair of scissors, you should sharpen only the side of the cutting blade with a beveled edge. For an anvil pruner, the type with a cutting blade that strikes an anvil-like surface, both sides of the cutting blade should be sharpened. For either type, sharpening is done by holding the open pruner firmly in hand and slowly passing the sharpening stone across the blade, following the contour of the blade as if your were removing a thin layer of metal from the blade surface.

Marjorie recommends sharpening with a DiaSharp Diamond Mini-Hone Kit, available from online retailers. The kit contains three stones in extra fine, fine and coarse grits and can be purchased from any of several online retailers.

Clean and sharpen your pruning tools at the end of the year. Before putting them away, oil the moving parts of each tool with 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil.

If, like me, you often work the soil with a digging fork, you have probably experienced the frustration of bending one of the tines on a buried root or rock. To straighten the bent tine, often first noticed when cleaning and putting the fork away for the winter, I use a long galvanized 1-inch pipe driven into the ground with about 12 inches left aboveground.

Sticking the bent tine into the end of the pipe, I can usually straighten it as good as new, or nearly so. This works well for pitchforks, too.

With freezing temperatures imminent, be sure to keep your garden hoses drained when not in use — there is nothing more frustrating than trying to use a hose filled with ice. When you no longer need hoses in the garden, let them drain completely then coil them for storage in the garage or basement. If you have several hoses scattered about the garden, you may want to label each one by location.

In May, when you take your favorite digging tool down and feel the smoothness of its handle in your palm for the first time in months, October’s work will be rewarded.

Send queries to Gardening Questions, P.O. Box 418, Ellsworth 04605, or to rmanley@shead.org. Include name, address and telephone number.

 

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